While you could spend more time, I had just 3 days in the country. It proved enough to throughly see the capital city (Chisinau, or Kishneu – English and Russian spelling, respectively), and to get outside during a half day tour to the Milisti Mici Winery and some of the countryside.
The first day I arrived, I walked mostly around the neighbourhood, getting to a small grocery store, where I was able to withdraw some Moldovan Lei (as I was unable to purchase this back in Canada). This was my wine tour day. Milisti Mici Winery produces some of the best wines of the country, and are very well known, though not usually outside of Moldova.
‘Wine’ Fountains outside the winery – serious money has been put into some ‘production value’ here!
Wine. For days and day. This was about a quarter of the length of one tunnel. If you were to walk through all the tunnels, in their entirety, it would take about a week (of non-stop walking…surely walking amongst all this wine, you could stop for a little sip?!)
The amazing meal at the end of the tour (this was the first course, of four, each almost more delicious than the last!)
While possible to book your own tour to the winery, it would be much easier to book a tour with either Boris (through Marisha), or the local tourist bureau in town (at the train station), and at the Cosmo Hotel. This is because the winery is about 15 kilometres outside of Chisinau, and there are no public transport links between the two. Additionally, the wine tour is conducted with your driver, as you drive through the cave and storage area. To try and attempt and communicate this with the taxis in Chisinau would be a bit of a challenge, especially if you can not speak Russian. The tour, complete with driver, was 45USD per person. This included a fantastic guided tour of the massive storage area, as well as great stories about the history of Chisinau, Moldova, and the winery, and some of the frequent and famous guests of the winery. It also included a multi-course wine tasting with meal (appetizers on the website, however it was very filling and the courses were seemingly endless). Check out their numerous tours here.
You can (and should!) spend at least one day walking around the city. I downloaded a city walking tour from gpsmycity.com. The initial app is free, but each walking tour costs between 2-5USD. Considering the information available in each ‘city guide’ (with between 7-30 different routes in each city), this is a very reasonable price to pay. Depending on your time in the city, you can also choose to purchase only one or two of the routes. You can search attractions by your interests (churches, history, culture, shopping, attractions, etc). Additionally, you can search by attraction, or area of the city you’d like to stay in, and create your own walking tour. If you download this, GPS will follow your location and will guide you through the route. At each attraction, there are images in the app, as well as a guide who will read your the description. Most walking tour apps will provide similar details, though I have tried several and this was by far the most reasonably priced, with the most potential information.
Depending on how quickly you meander through the city, there are easily enough sights to see to keep you busy, but not stressed, for two good walking days. This would give you time to check out a museum if you like. There are a few good ones; I checked out the museum of fine art – however most of the descriptions are in Russian or Moldovan, and there were no audio guides available. Additionally, Chisinau is home to several beautiful parks with lots of shade, beautiful water fountains, and playgrounds, should you be traveling with children.
There are dozens of stunning churches. Whether you opt to go inside (women – bring along something to cover your head as a show of respect. Though not required, you will get some stares from the locals should you go without – why not try to blend in?) or not, both inside and outside are gorgeous. In addition to the churches that are found on just about every block, make sure you head to see the Monastery of St Teodor Tiron. It is located right in town in the same 3-4km radius of all the other can’t-miss sights. If you want to go into the catacombs (unlike most catacombs, these are beautifully kept up, well-lit and not as unsettling as others can be – however if you are prone to claustrophobia, give it a miss, as the twists and turns can be narrow), women will need to borrow a skirt and a headscarf (free, located right beside the catacombs in the gift shop, just help yourself).
Monastery of St Teodor Tiron
Though churches are free, there is often a donation box directly inside. These donations help with upkeep of the building and occasionally, other community causes as well.
Two of the oldest Moldovan Orthodox Churches in Chisinau
Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity Bell Tower
Eternal Flame Memorial
Parliament Buildings
In the evenings, for both dinner, and the best beer in town, the local pub (and somewhat proudly, the only pub in town with a bartender who speaks English!), ‘Beer House’ is the place to be. Frequented by locals, tourists are beginning to discover the place. They develop their own craft beers onsite and they even have an English website. Unfortunately, this has caused prices to rise to slightly above usual prices. A pint of local, Moldovan beer costs between 3-5USD, whereas at other local places, a pint would cost between 1.50-2.50USD. If you have chosen to stay at Marisha’s parents place, the location can’t be beat (it’s right beside the apartment building – though I never heard a sound – it closes around 11pm).
Beer House on Negruzzi Street
If you manage to get tired of visiting churches and monuments on your walking day, the Chisinau Museum of Fine Arts is a great place to spend a few hours. Though most of the descriptions are in Russian or Moldovan, they have an impressive collect of both local and European paintings, sculptures and special exhibits. Some 30,000 works are housed in five different galleries. Its largest collection is a number of Orthodox icons. The museum is open from 10:00-17:00 daily, and closed Mondays. Admission cost is 15 Moldovan Lei (which is less than ONE usd) for adults, and between 5-12 for students, children, European citizens (with valid passport ID) and seniors. The museum is located around the block of the Monument to Stefan cel Mar.
Finally, relax in the heat of the afternoon in one of the many parks in the city. A basic lunch will cost less than 3 USD at local grocery stores (think a sandwich, fruit/veggies, drink – both bottled water and local beer/wine are available). A picnic in the park is a great way to people watch and enjoy the beautiful weather.
Just a few of the many beautiful parks.
Most within the centre of the city.
Flowers, sculptures and fountains.
While the city is beautiful, the people willing to help and friendly, overall very inexpensive, and lots to see and do, it is not without its faults. As you can see in the park picture above, pavement, sidewalks, roads and pathways are all in need of a little care. You’ll never know if the brick you’re about to step on is loose.
Cars and drivers are a little careless about pedestrians, and there are very few walkways. It’s a lot of ‘look both ways and run’ road crossings.
As mentioned, finding someone to speak English with is next-to-impossible. While this doesn’t prevent you from having a fantastic trip, it can be difficult to make yourself understood, should you really need help. Russian is most widely spoken amongst the older generation, and Romanian/Moldovan is the official language. Younger people are most likely to have a bit of English.
Despite all its challenges, Moldova was a fantastic, undiscovered new country to discover, and it should definitely be on your list!
Have you ever been? What else would you add to a must-do/see list?
Leave a Reply